17th June 2013
If You read my last written post 9th
June I was wondering how long we would be stranded in Halls Creek, as it turned
out parts were sourced in Kununurra on the Monday and arrived in Halls Creek
Tuesday getting us underway Wednesday, all history now. We drove to Fitzroy
Crossing and settled into a large caravan park on the northern side of town.
Fitzroy Crossing is serviced by a fair sized IGA store and I didn’t see much
more than that, alarmingly the heavy steel gratings covering any and all
openings plus the immensely strong steel framed security doors at the shop
front are testament to the behaviour problems all too prevalent in a lot of
these remote settlements, most of it fuelled by alcohol, you just don’t go out
at night.
We got underway at a reasonable time the
next day and before continuing south joined a short morning boat tour of the
Geikie Gorge approximately 24kls west of the town, good value for money and a
very enthusiastic and informative guide.
Travelling on south through an
ever-changing landscape from flat savannah scrub to good cattle grazing country
we turned off the Great Northern Highway and continued into Derby, it was
Thursday 13th June. Friday we had a quiet day, did a bit of grocery
shopping and looked around town. One of the amazing things to see is the
phenomenal rise and fall in the tide something like 11metres between low and
high water, one tide per day. We were in luck, on Friday night there was fund
raising mud crab racing , what a hoot and for $10 we got half a hot mud crab
(must have cooked the losers), the biggest meat pattie I’ve ever seen, a lovely
fresh hamburger bun and an assortment of some of the best salad I have had for
yonks.
Saturday 15th June we took one
vehicle and drove 140kls up the Gibb River Road to Windjaner Gorge National
Park and then onto Tunnel Creek. As far as gorges go we have seen more
impressive ones but it was still interesting. This area was once a coral reef
and walking under overhanging formations you can look up and see numerous
fossilised shells imbedded in the rock, so in fact you are looking up at the
sea-bed from below it, if you follow what I mean.
Another point of interest is the huge
number of fresh water crocodiles sunning themselves on the river bank and sand
bars looking like a scene out of an early African jungle movie (eg Tarzan). A
lot of people think they won’t hurt you as they are fish eaters but when you
see those teeth, I wouldn’t want to push my luck with them. Although I was
photographing them from about 3m.
Another 30kls further on was Tunnel Creek,
here the four us with our little LED headlights on entered a small crevice in a
rock wall that opens up into a limestone cavern with a creek running through it
and winds its way through the mountain for about half a kilometre. Pitch black
and wading sometimes through water up to your crotch, it was all good fun,
interesting and at times a bit spooky. In a couple of locations sunlight pours
through where the tunnel is exposed to the outside world creating a rather
attractive effect.
Sunday 16th we were picked up by
bus at 2:15pm and taken out to the local airstrip where we boarded a float
plane (also has little wheels) and flew out across the beautiful Buccaneer
Archipelago and circled the phenomenon known as the horizontal waterfalls, then
we landed on the water and transferred to a series of moored pontoons forming a
large accommodation platform, entertainment area, fish feeding platform and catwalks
for the seaplanes to secure to.
We had time to be welcomed, drop our
overnight gear into our rooms, have a very quick cold drink and don life
jackets to climb on board a 600 horse-powered rubber ducky, all straddling a
cushioned seat like a gymnasium horse and hanging on for dear life to a handle
bar in front while some maniac hurtled us through the gaps in the rock
formation that create the horizontal falls. Basically its like charging into a
violent washing machine, just like some crazy showground ride no person in
their right mind would go on and all the time the noise of the power house
engines were drowned out by the screams, laughter and yahoos of those of us
on-board, (the youngest being about 54), what a blast.
Time has caught up with me so I must close
for now. We are actually in Broome and leaving in the morning, not sure where
we are going and if we will have internet connection for a while but suffice to
say eventually I will bring you up to-date and add more photos.
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