3rdJanuary 2011
Over the past couple of days we have enjoyed a bit of sight seeing around the southern Fleurieu Peninsula, picturesque coastlines and undulating farm land towards Cape Jervis where the Kangaroo Island Ferry operates from. Down this way it appears there are more dairy and sheep farms with a spattering of vineyards here and there. Heading in a northerly direction from Cape Jervis, side roads take you to small villages and sheltered coves, several with substantial jetties popular with fishermen and hardy souls swimming in the clear water (it’s clear because it’s so cold). A few kilometres further north the beaches stretch out white and beautiful and in the more populated areas, patrolled by life savers and the Westpac Chopper. From Carrickalinga we drove back across the Peninsula to Victor Harbor travelling along tree lined roads through a rural landscape of the Inman Valley, a lovely drive.
Another day saw us heading in the opposite direction through small old settlements of Port Elliot, Middleton and Goolwa, (pronounced locally as gorwa so as not to be confused with the city of Gawler !)
Goolwa is an old port town on the mighty Murray River at its delta. We drove over a substantial bridge at Goolwa to Hindmarsh Island. My brochure tells me that Hindmarsh is approximately 15kl long and 6kl wide, it is unique as one end of the island faces fresh water and the other end salt. Captain Charles Sturt used Hindmarsh Island as the highest point to locate the Murray River mouth on his epic journey down river in 1830. The island was named after Governor Hindmarsh in 1837 when the area was mapped. In 1853, Dr Rankine leased the island for grazing and in 1854 Charles Price came to the island with Schropshire sheep and Hereford cattle the first of the breeds to be introduced into SA. (and everytime I hear of Schropshire sheep, I can hear that old advertisement featuring the gay dark chap saying “shwoppshire ! --- howww wonderful). I guess simple things amuse simple minds.
Most people are aware how critical the lack of water has been in the Murray River over the past decade, sand dredging was commenced at the mouth region in October 2002 and continues to this day in an effort to prevent closure of the river mouth. From Hindmarsh Island we were fortunate enough to see the Murray River in flood and water passing freely out of its mouth. Recently while visiting an area further up stream (the town of Mannum) staff in the tourist office told us they had lived locally for 12 years and hadn’t seen the river as high as it is currently and of course they are all excited at having water in their river now. We were quick to point out that a lot of it had come from Qld and they may be lucky enough to get some more soon.
Nancy and I could still be in SA for a few months, if so something I will be looking forward to is the South Australian Wooden Boat Festival that is to be held in Goolwa on the 26th & 27th of February.
Goolwa itself is an interesting town the main street still has many original houses and business houses dating from around the 1840’s and 50’s and still in use. Most of these little towns support lovely little art galleries Goolwa had one exceptionally good gallery full of excellent art. We visited a busy market that was more what I would call the old style flea market rather than a farmers fresh produce market but we did purchase fresh cherries and some home made pies while we were there and later in town in one of the old shops selling second hand books I picked up a copy of Bryce Courtenay’s “Fishing for Stars” $16.50 and looks brand new, about $50 in Adelaide, bargain. Back at Victor Harbor I found a terrific little gallery with fabulous art and second hand Australian Art magazines for $2 each another bargain. The lotto ticket we purchased on Saturday didn’t work though.
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